This is a quietly serious Sardinian spumante, made by someone who very much knows what she is doing and does it with charm, confidence and a smile. Bisso Dodici 2014 from Tenute Olbios is the work of a passionate female winemaker who believes Vermentino deserves time, attention and a little bit of sparkle.

We were lucky enough to welcome her into our restaurant, where she spoke about her wines the way she makes them thoughtfully, honestly and without fuss. That spirit carries straight into the glass. Aged patiently on lees, this spumante opens with fine, persistent bubbles and notes of preserved citrus, dried apple and toasted almond, layered with gentle brioche and a savoury, saline edge that feels unmistakably Sardinian.

There is depth here, but nothing showy. The 2014 vintage brings calm confidence rather than sharp angles, with freshness balanced by texture and a beautifully integrated acidity. It is sparkling wine for the table, not just the toast made for food, conversation and a second glass you did not plan on ordering.

As with all her wines, the winemaking is gentle and precise, letting place and time do the heavy lifting. Elegant, dry and quietly expressive, this is a spumante we love to pour when guests want to discover something a little different proof that patience, personality and a strong sense of place can make bubbles with real character.