Don Chisciotte holds a special place for us because it comes from Campania, the region where my husband, chef Nicola Coccia, was born. Its honest, deeply regional character reflects the philosophy of our restaurant: respect the ingredient, intervene as little as possible and let its origins speak.

Pierluigi Zampaglione produces only this one wine on his family’s historic organic farm near Calitri in Alta Irpinia. The tiny two-hectare vineyard sits around 800 metres above sea level, where cool nights and strong winds preserve the grapes remarkable freshness.

Fiano is one of Campania’s great native white grapes.

For Australian drinkers, imagine the generosity of Chardonnay, the freshness of Hunter Valley Semillon and the citrusy, herbal character of Vermentino.

The certified-organic grapes are handpicked, fermented with indigenous yeasts and left on their skins for approximately 10 days. The wine then matures in stainless steel on its lees and is bottled without fining or filtration. This low-intervention method creates its deep golden colour, layered texture and delicate tannic grip.

Expect pear, white peach, citrus peel, mountain herbs and wildflowers, with subtle honey, roasted nuts and a long, saline finish. It is complex and distinctive without being overly funky, an excellent introduction to skin-contact wine.

Made in tiny quantities, Don Chisciotte has been reviewed by respected international publications including Vinous and JancisRobinson.com. Italian-wine specialist Tom Hyland rated the 2016 “Excellent”, while Opening a Bottle awarded the 2010 vintage five stars.