Primitivo with richness, freshness and none of the heaviness

Plantamura Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva Primitivo 2020 shows a more refined and food friendly side of one of Puglia’s best known grapes.

Made from old, low-yielding Primitivo vines planted in 1987, it has all the dark fruit and generosity we expect from the variety, but it never becomes excessively sweet, jammy or alcoholic.

The nose is deep and expressive, with black cherry, blackberry, plum, warm spice, coffee bean and a gentle lift of wild mint.

The palate is full and velvety, with concentrated fruit, moderate tannins and enough natural freshness to keep the wine balanced. There is no new-oak flavour covering the fruit just Primitivo, old vines and the distinctive limestone soils of Gioia del Colle.

This is a serious Primitivo, but one that still feels comfortable and completely at home around the table.

What is Primitivo?

Primitivo is a dark-skinned grape grown primarily in Puglia, the long, narrow region forming the heel of southern Italy.

The name refers to the variety’s tendency to ripen early. It is derived from the Italian word primo, meaning “first.”

Primitivo is genetically the same variety as California’s Zinfandel and is closely related to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski.

In warm conditions, it can produce deeply coloured wines with blackberry, plum, dark cherry, spice and relatively high alcohol.

Not all Primitivo tastes the same, however.

The variety changes considerably according to vineyard altitude, soil, yield and harvest date. Plantamura’s vineyards in Gioia del Colle are higher and cooler than many sites farther south, giving the wine greater freshness and a more savoury, structured personality.

What makes Gioia del Colle different?

Gioia del Colle means “joy of the hill.”

The appellation lies on the Murge plateau in central Puglia, at a considerably higher elevation than the hotter, flatter vineyards closer to the coast.

Plantamura’s Riserva vineyard sits at approximately 360 metres above sea level.

At this altitude, the difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures helps the grapes retain acidity and aromatic definition as they ripen.

The area is also naturally windy. Regular air movement helps keep the vines healthy and reduces humidity around the fruit.

These conditions create a different expression of Primitivo: ripe and generous, but fresher, more structured and less dominated by sweetness or alcohol.

The vineyard

The Riserva comes from a vineyard planted in 1987 using a massal selection of Primitivo.

Massal selection means the vines were propagated from a diverse collection of healthy plants within the vineyard rather than from one commercially standardised clone.

This preserves genetic diversity and allows individual vines to behave differently according to their position, soil and exposure.

The vines are head trained using the traditional alberello system. Each plant grows as an individual low bush rather than along a continuous wire trellis.

Alberello training protects the grapes from strong wind and sun while naturally limiting production.

The vineyard produces no more than approximately 60 quintals of grapes per hectare—lower than Plantamura’s other Primitivo parcels.

Lower yields give the remaining fruit greater concentration, flavour and structure.

The soil

The vineyard is planted on limestone and chalk-rich soil containing ancient marine shells.

These pale, rocky soils drain freely and prevent excessive vine vigour.

Their ability to retain enough moisture below the surface allows the vines to continue ripening during Puglia’s warm, dry growing season.

The combination of limestone, altitude and cooling wind helps explain why the wine feels fresher and more composed than many heavier Primitivo styles.

It has concentration, but it also has definition.

The Plantamura story

Plantamura is a small, family-run organic estate based in Gioia del Colle.

The Plantamura family has cultivated Primitivo for more than a century. Earlier generations grew grapes and sold them to other producers, passing their knowledge of the vineyards from one generation to the next.

Mariangela Plantamura and her husband, Vincenzo, began bottling wine under the family name in 2002.

Vincenzo manages the vineyards, while Mariangela oversees the cellar. Their daughters are also involved in the family estate.

The winery remains small and focused. Plantamura cultivates approximately nine hectares and works exclusively with Primitivo, producing three wines distinguished primarily by the age and location of their vineyards.

Annual production across the entire estate is limited, with the Riserva accounting for approximately 8,000 bottles.

A more responsible approach

Plantamura has been committed to organic farming from the beginning and is certified by AIAB, the Italian Association for Organic Agriculture.

The family manages the entire production process, from the vineyard through to bottling.

Their approach includes:

Certified-organic farming

No synthetic herbicides or pesticides

How is it made?

The grapes are harvested manually into crates during the first ten days of September.

Harvest timing is important with Primitivo because sugar levels can rise quickly as the fruit ripens. Picking at the right moment preserves acidity and prevents the finished wine from becoming overly alcoholic.

After arriving at the cellar, the grapes are destemmed.

Fermentation takes place in stainless-steel tanks using indigenous yeasts naturally present on the grapes and in the winery.

The juice remains in contact with the skins for approximately ten days. This is enough to extract deep colour, fruit and structure without making the tannins excessively hard.

The wine is matured for 12 months in stainless steel, followed by a further 12 months in bottle.

Despite its Riserva classification, it does not rely on new oak.

This absence of barrel flavour allows the black cherry, blackberry, spice and herbal notes of Primitivo to remain clear and expressive.

What does Riserva mean?

“Riserva” indicates that a wine has undergone longer maturation and meets additional requirements established by its appellation.

It does not automatically mean that a wine has been aged in oak.

Plantamura’s Riserva spends 12 months in stainless-steel tanks and another 12 months resting in bottle before release.

Steel preserves the wine’s fruit and freshness, while bottle maturation allows its flavours and tannins to become more integrated.

The result has the depth expected from a Riserva without strong vanilla, toast or woody aromas.

What does it taste like?

The colour is a deep ruby red, becoming slightly garnet or brick-toned as the wine matures.

The nose opens with ripe black cherry, blackberry, plum and dark forest berries.

Warm spice follows, with notes reminiscent of clove, cinnamon and cracked pepper. With air, the wine reveals coffee bean, dried herbs and a subtle minty freshness.

The palate is full-bodied and velvety, with concentrated dark fruit and smooth, present tannins.

Despite its richness, it does not feel syrupy or excessively sweet. Natural acidity and savoury herbal notes keep the wine balanced.

The finish is long and warming, with lingering black cherry, spice, coffee and a gentle bitter note that makes it particularly suited to food.

Should I decant it?

Yes. Decanting for approximately 30–45 minutes will help the wine open.

Air allows the dark fruit, spice, mint and coffee notes to become more expressive while softening the perception of its structure.

Serve it at approximately 16–18°C.

Avoid serving it at a warm Australian room temperature. If necessary, place the bottle in the refrigerator for 20–30 minutes before opening.

Use a medium-to-large red-wine glass to give the aromas enough room to develop.

What should I drink it with?

This is a natural partner for bold, savoury dishes.

Its ripe fruit works with caramelised meat, while its acidity and gentle bitterness balance rich sauces and mature cheeses.